What are you waiting for, jump on the rope. You have a great bolt under you. Wait a minute... are you sure? In this article on myths surrounding climbing equipment, Kolin "KP" Powick reports on a recent incident that led to an investigation into sport climbing safety standards.
Experience report by Kolin Powick
Most of us probably stroll up to a sport climbing route, tie in and start climbing without giving too much thought to bolts, straps, anchors or fixed equipment (e.g. fixed quickdraws).
Recently my wife Ellen Powick was attempting a route at a local crag and fell just above a perfectly normal bolt. She then screamed (highly unusual) as she fell further than expected, but luckily did not hit the ledge below. She was OK, but we were all confused by what had just happened.
It turned out that the bolt nut had probably come loose, as it was almost at the end of the thread. The slight backward force of the fall loosened the nut, causing the tab and the attached quickdraw to slide down the rope during the fall and hit Ellen in the forearm. Luckily it wasn't her face!
The next bolt had caught her. After she was back on the ground and the shock had subsided, I asked her if she had ever been a bit nervous when climbing or especially when checking out a route.
ever checked the lugs, nuts or bolts. She looked at me and said calmly: "Obviously not this time!"
The question of the "right" handling
Just a few weeks later, Bill Ramsey was attempting a busy route at another crag and the same thing almost happened. He was hanging on a bolt and noticed that the nut was about to come loose. He carefully climbed to the next bolt, took a wrench and tightened the loose nut underneath.
So the question is, what is the right approach to bolted sport climbing routes - routes that many of us naturally consider to be perfectly safe to protect. Do most climbers check the bolts, straps and fixed carabiners etc. on sport climbing routes? Who tightens loose nuts or informs the local climbing clubs when suspicious protection is discovered while climbing?
We decided to reach out to a handful of friends and Black Diamond athletes and ask them for their opinions.
Hazel Findlay: Focus on the first hooks of a route
First, we chatted with the intrepid Hazel Findlay"I check at least the first bolts in a route, but if I see that they are still new or glued, I tend not to check the others, especially when I am onsighting," she reports.
We also asked if she carries a wrench in her backpack to tighten loose bolts. "Sometimes," she says. "We keep one in the van and take it with us when we think it's necessary." When it comes to reporting suspicious bolts, I guess it depends on where she's climbing.
Daila Ojeda: Checking the material is standard
For Daila Ojeda, checking bolts is a matter of course. "I check bolts because I have always climbed with people who drill or repair routes in sport climbing areas and who are aware of the dangers. So I am used to checking them," says Daila Ojeda.
"A friend who does a lot of drilling gave me a small wrench for my backpack. And I must say that it has been used many times," she adds.
As for reporting potential problems, Daila believes it is necessary to go straight to the source. "I find out who bolted the routes I climb. If there is a problem with the route, I usually contact that person directly or, alternatively, a climbing club. This is very important because we are a community and we have to take care of our playground. In the climbing gyms there are people who take care of the safety, cleanliness, etc. of the wall. On natural rock, this is our job."
Babsi Zangerl: More attentive after a bad experience
In conversation with Babsi Zangerl we were surprised to learn that she had had a similar experience to my wife. "The same thing happened to me on a route," says Babsi. "The strap was loose and came off as I climbed past. When I fell, it was a veeeery long fall."
Babsi says that she takes a wrench with her for long multi-pitch routes, but not for sport climbing. "On the rock, I often try to tighten the nut with my fingers."
For Babsi, rusty bolts are a real nightmare on sport climbing routes. "I had an experience on a very old route in Val di Mello," she says.
ยซDuring the first few days on the wall, I was happy about the many bolts and felt pretty safe, so I risked a few long falls. After I had been on this route for a while, the first ascents asked if we could replace some bolts and that was an eye-opener for me.
After taking a closer look at the bolts (see photo), I was no longer so naive. Instead of climbing carelessly, I was now particularly attentive!โ
Jacopo Larcher: Mostly wrenches in the backpack
Babsiโs climbing partner and life partner, Jacopo Larcher, has also been checking bolts since a dramatic experience. "I personally started checking bolts after one broke while I was drilling a multi-pitch route," says Jacopo. "Since then, I've been more careful and always try to check the bolts."
He also says: "I've had a few situations where the nut has been unscrewed by the cable (mostly when crossing) and the tab has come off. That really scares me, and that's why I usually have a wrench in my backpack!"
Seb Bouin: Regular drilling improves judgment
Da Seb Bouin Although he mostly climbs at the higher grades, he spends many days of the season bolting sport climbing routes. This allows him to climb new routes and at the same time has the opportunity to push the boundaries of climbing. In doing so, Seb has developed a fundamental understanding of bolt protection.
"I usually only check the most important bolts (i.e. those that would cause you to fall to the ground if they fail)."
For Seb, it is helpful to have a basic understanding of how expansion bolts work. "I think it is hard to check a bolt if you have never placed one before or at least don't know how it works," he says. It is really difficult to evaluate the integrity of the bolt in the area that you cannot see.
For Seb, the first step to safety is education. And definitely report anything that looks suspicious. But to whom? Seb says that local climbers are a good option.
"If you find a bad bolt on the rock, the best thing to do is to contact the locals. They usually know who drilled the route or which club you can contact. And if you know about bolting, you can even ask the original route bolter or first ascention for permission to replace the bolt yourself."
Finally, Seb points out that the use of modern hardware could solve the problem of loose or broken bolts and straps.
"In my opinion, the best way to avoid this type of problem is to use glued bolts," explains Seb. They last longer and you avoid the problem of the nut coming loose.
Will Gadd: reports suspicious activity on social media
Speaking of adhesive hooks โ Mr. Will Gadd, an old hand, brings a certain degree of suspicion to every new climbing area, even if the bolts look impeccable.
"Even if they're all shiny glued-on hooks, I look for changes," he says. "If something looks strange, I take it seriously. This is especially true for older routes. Sea cliffs, water, signs of rust or physical damage - all of these things mean to me that you should take a closer look." As for the rotating tabs, Gadd has a little trick up his sleeve:
He also says: "When I come across something suspicious, I usually post it on social media on the Facebook page of the community in question (TABVAR here in Canmore, but there are many similar groups worldwide)."
That might interest you
- These silent creators take care of your climbing routes
- Drill in, yes, but please with style
- Professional indignant: Stefan Glowacz criticizes first climber for setting up from above
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Credits: Cover image Christian Adam/Black Diamond, text Black Diamond