Alexander Megos succeeds again in the ascent of a difficult route in Flash style. He climbed chromosome Y at Charmey in the first go and also scored the route meiosis (originally 9b). He devalues both routes.
“Oops, I did it again,” comments the top German climber Alexander Megos. his most recent exploit. He climbed the route Chromosomes Y (9a) at Charmey flash, so on the first try, based on information about the route. The Swiss gave him the instructions for the inspection Alexander Rohr, who often climbs with Megos.
The route Chromosome Y in the Swiss climbing area Charmey was opened in 2012 by Pirmin Bertle first entered and rated 9a. However, the degree did not last long. Already the first repeater, Adam Ondra, did not confirm the grade after his flash inspection. Alexander Rohr, who climbed the route in 2017, suggested for chromosomes Y 8c + before. This is the opinion of the third repeater of the tour, Samuel Ometz, and now Alexander Megos.
"I agree with the opinion of most repeaters and also think that the route's degree of difficulty is more like 8c +."
Alexander Megos.
Pirmin Bertle has to give up a second time: 9b becomes 9a
Given his top form, it was to be expected that Alexander Megos would also have the combination of chromosome X and chromosome Y, the line meiosis, will try. The line was opened by Pirmin Bertle in 2015 as the first 9b in Switzerland. Adam Ondra got the first repetition in 2018 - and devalued the tour to 9a +. At the time that was not well received by the first climber, who spoke up publicly (LACRUX reported).
The degree of meiosis now falls even further down the difficulty scale. Alexander Megos only rates meiosis with 9a. Hard stuff for first-time climbers. According to Megos, Pirmin Bertle would omit handles that are within reach of the line without discussion and therefore, in his opinion, are also part of the route.
“It doesn't make sense not to use these handles. In my opinion I climbed the same line, used the same bolts, but with a completely different beta and different holds. "
Alexander Megos.
So Alexander Megos has a completely different beta than the first climber and therefore rates the route as 9a. With the solution of the first climber, the difficulty of the route is 9a + according to Megos.
That might interest you
- Belgian devaluation mania: lack of respect or legitimate criticism?
- Video: Jakob Schubert climbs Ticino classics
- Nalle Hukkataival opens DWS route el Tippa Tapa (8c) in Finland
Do you like our climbing magazine? When we launched LACRUX, we decided not to introduce a payment barrier. It will stay that way, because we want to provide as many like-minded people with news from the climbing scene.
In order to be more independent of advertising revenue in the future and to provide you with even more and better content, we need your support.
Therefore: Help and support our magazine with a small contribution. Naturally you benefit multiple times. How? You will find out Here.
+ + +
Credits: Cover picture Jan Virt Photography