Alex Rohr manages the first ascent of Oblivion (9a) in Gimmelwald

The Swiss professional climber Alex Rohr connects the routes Alpenbitter (8c+/9a) and Renardo Rules (8c/8c+) to Oblivion in the Swiss climbing Mecca Gimmelwald. He rates his new tour with a hard boulder crux as 9a.

After his successful trip to Norway, he succeeds Alex tubein gimmelwald to climb an old project: Oblivion (9a). The line connects the first and lighter part of Alpenbitter (8c+/9a) with a hard 8a+ boulder crux halfway and at the end of the route Renardo Rules (8c/8c+). "There are no real resting points and the main difficulty is getting the four moves of the bouldering crux already slightly pumped," says Alex Rohr.

Alex Rohr in his new creation Oblivion in the Gimmelwald climbing area. Image: John Thornton
Alex Rohr in his new creation Oblivion (9a) in the Gimmelwald climbing area. Image: John Thornton

"There are no real resting points and the main difficulty is getting the four moves of the bouldering crux already slightly pumped."

Alex tube

Oblivion harder than Alpenbitter (8c+/9a)

Alex Rohr had been trying to climb the connection between the Alpenbitter and Renardo Rules routes for a long time. Actually, he had the route before he left for Norway Flatanger want to check off. "But I couldn't climb through it."

The key part of Oblivion (9a) is a bouldering sequence consisting of four moves. Image: John Thornton
The crux of Oblivion (9a) is a bouldering sequence consisting of four moves. Image: John Thornton

Back from Norway, he traveled directly to Gimmelwald to face the open challenge. "I invested another four days until I was finally able to put all the trains together," says Alex Rohr.

"When I climbed the Alpenbitter route (8c+/9a) again as a training session after the successful first ascent, I noticed that my new link-up felt harder."

Alex tube

Regarding the assessment of Oblivion, he initially hesitated. "When I climbed the Alpenbitter route (8c+/9a) again as a training session after the successful first ascent, I noticed that my new link-up felt harder." That's why Oblivion is now rated 9a.

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Credits: Cover photo John Thornton

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