"Arrival of the Birds" (9A) gets its first repeat | Sean Bailey in Chironico

Controlled movements, tiny edges, stable body positions – American sport climber Sean Bailey quietly repeated Aidan Roberts' test piece »Arrival of the Birds« in Chironico, Switzerland.

First replay without commentary from Bailey

In the winter of 2024, Bailey made climbing history: He achieved the first ascent of the world's ninth 9A boulder problem.Shaolin" in the Red RocksShortly thereafter, he devoted himself to Shawn Raboutous alphanes, also 9A, in Chironico and secured the sixth repeat. Now he quietly ventured onto Aidan Roberts' crimp test piece. Bailey didn't make a loud announcement of his repeat, but instead posted a video on Instagram that initially leaves one to only speculate about what he's actually bouldering.

That's unbelievable, we're getting the first rerun of Arrival of the Birds as a reel without caption in 240p. 

quarterpadminipinch comment on Instagram

The Midnight Project – Low or high start?

"Is this a repeat of Arrival of the Birds?" The scene is buzzing with discussion under the video, which, to be fair, does look like it was filmed through a microwave.
The question remains whether the original start wasn't slightly lower than Bailey's – we'll probably have to wait and see what Roberts has to say about that. However, we do know that Roberts lowered the start because Shawn Raboutou, with whom he was working on "The Midnight Project" – as the boulder was then called – couldn't reach the starting holds he had originally planned. Since Raboutou is just under 1,68 m tall and Bailey is a little over 1,63 m, it seems unlikely that Bailey used the higher start that even Raboutou couldn't reach. A comment from Raboutou under Bailey's video also suggests that this is indeed the correct start.

Until we get a beta video from Roberts or Bailey comments on his ascent, we can only speculate. Nevertheless, we're delighted with this somewhat different beta video that briefly made the climbing community hold its breath. 

You might be interested in:

+ + +
Credits: Cover image: Screenshot Sean Bailey Instagram Reel

News

The toughest trad route in the world: Jacopo Larcher repeats »Bon Voyage« E12

South Tyrolean trad specialist Jacopo Larcher has repeated James Pearson's "Bon Voyage" (E12) in Annot, France. This marks his fourth ascent of the world's hardest trad route.

Rising star from South Korea: Ga-eun Kwon (12) climbs »Era Vella« (9a)

Twelve-year-old South Korean Ga-eun Kwon has become the second youngest person ever to repeat Chris Sharma's Margalef classic "Era Vella" (9a).

A new chapter for Pakistan's mountain guides

A historic moment for Pakistan's mountain guides. On November 29th, the Karakoram Mountain Guides Association (KMGA) was officially launched in Skardu – the first nationwide organization founded by mountaineers themselves and dedicated exclusively to their interests.

ARGOS (M9, WI6+) – New mixed challenge in the Reintal

South Tyrolean climbers Simon Gietl and Manuel Oberarzbacher have gifted us with a new mixed route in the Reintal valley just in time for Christmas! On November 23rd and 24th, the climbing team opened their line on the previously unclimbed granite wall, and only four days later, Gietl, together with Mario Kapelle, achieved a redpoint ascent of ARGOS (M9, WI6+) – an early highlight of the young ice climbing season.

The toughest trad route in the world: Jacopo Larcher repeats »Bon Voyage« E12

South Tyrolean trad specialist Jacopo Larcher has repeated James Pearson's "Bon Voyage" (E12) in Annot, France. This marks his fourth ascent of the world's hardest trad route.

Rising star from South Korea: Ga-eun Kwon (12) climbs »Era Vella« (9a)

Twelve-year-old South Korean Ga-eun Kwon has become the second youngest person ever to repeat Chris Sharma's Margalef classic "Era Vella" (9a).

A new chapter for Pakistan's mountain guides

A historic moment for Pakistan's mountain guides. On November 29th, the Karakoram Mountain Guides Association (KMGA) was officially launched in Skardu – the first nationwide organization founded by mountaineers themselves and dedicated exclusively to their interests.

Comment on the article

Please enter your comment!
Please enter your name here