The combined format of lead, speed and bouldering is to be abolished

The Organizing Committee of the 2024 Olympics in Paris has submitted a proposal to the International Olympic Committee to abolish the combination rating. The proposal provides for a combined assessment of the disciplines of bouldering and lead climbing. Speed, however, would be rated separately in the future.

The news of the proposal is spreading like wildfire through the climbing scene. You could feel the relief of the athletes. Because the combined format was and is sharply criticized by many. "The combined format is a great tragedy for our sport," said Adam Ondra in an interview in 2016. Despite all the criticism, it will be used at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo and forces athletes like Adam Ondra to undergo specific training, which is also the Discipline includes speed.

More competitions, more athletes and more medals in Paris

Paris 2024 now proposes a split of the discipline Speed. New lead climbing and bouldering would be scored together and speed in a separate competition. This would mean that twelve instead of six medals could be awarded and 72 instead of 40 athletes could compete. 16 Women and 16 Men would fight for six medals in the Speed ​​discipline. In the second competition of the disciplines lead / bouldering it would be 20 athletes and 20 athletes and also six medals.

Nothing is decided yet

For the time being, this is only a proposal from the Organizing Committee for the 2024 Olympics. The proposal will be presented to the International Olympic Committee on March 26th. If the proposal is accepted, it will be decided at a meeting in Lausanne on June 24th. "It would be nice to have a set of medals for every discipline and this could be a step in the right direction," writes Swiss athlete Petra Klingler.

That might interest you

+ + +
Credits: Cover picture IFSC / Eddie Fowke

News

Andy Steindl with new record of the Spaghetti Tour

Andy Steindl conquers the Spaghetti Tour solo in an incredible 7 hours, 45 minutes and 44 seconds, setting a new record.
00:16:23

Nina Caprez: That was the biggest challenge in my life | Interview

At the Arc'teryx Alpine Academy in early July, we had the opportunity to have an in-depth conversation with Swiss professional climber Nina Caprez. What influence did the birth of her daughter Lia have on her life as a professional? Which moments were particularly challenging, which were particularly enriching?

Climbing at the Olympics: How the competition format works in Paris

In less than a month, the fight for medals will begin at the Olympic Games in Paris: this is how the competition format works.
00:16:21

Technique tips from 5 climbing professionals

Aidan Roberts, Jen Wood and other professionals give you tips in this video on how to improve your climbing technique.

Newsletter

Subscribe to our newsletter now and stay up to date.

Andy Steindl with new record of the Spaghetti Tour

Andy Steindl conquers the Spaghetti Tour solo in an incredible 7 hours, 45 minutes and 44 seconds, setting a new record.
00:16:23

Nina Caprez: That was the biggest challenge in my life | Interview

At the Arc'teryx Alpine Academy in early July, we had the opportunity to have an in-depth conversation with Swiss professional climber Nina Caprez. What influence did the birth of her daughter Lia have on her life as a professional? Which moments were particularly challenging, which were particularly enriching?

Climbing at the Olympics: How the competition format works in Paris

In less than a month, the fight for medals will begin at the Olympic Games in Paris: this is how the competition format works.

Comment on the article

Please enter your comment!
Please enter your name here