Sorato Anraku and Janja Garnbret march straight through the combined semifinals towards the Olympic ticket. Others didn't deliver in bouldering and needed a lot of points in the lead. Jakob Schubert and Brooke Raboutou coped very well with this pressure.
The news about the 2023 World Cup will be presented by Unparallel, Petzl and Bรคchli Bergsport
The prospect of an Olympic ticket drove the 20 or 21 strongest climbers to give their all again in the middle of the second half of the week. The individual disciplines of the past week have left certain marks - for some more, for others less.
Anraku and Garnbret ahead
The Japanese youngster was still strong Sorato Anraku. He not only finished the bouldering discipline as the best, but also shone in the lead in the evening with one of the few tops. If he can maintain his consistency, the 16-year-old is definitely a hot contender for gold in the combination.
Its counterpart in women is Janja Garnbret. She also finished the bouldering semifinals in 1st place. She was the only one to top all four boulders - albeit not quite as easy as in the individual discipline. In between, you realize that Janja the GOAT Garnbret is "only" human. In the lead semi-final in the evening, she already had her ticket to the final by the time she started. Of course, the strong Slovenian didn't know that and fought her way almost to the top.
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The young Briton qualified for the men Toby Roberts second for the combined final. He showed a solid performance in bouldering and confidently delivered in his favorite discipline lead with a top. Similar to the third place Colin Duffy. The young American excelled in both disciplines and was able to hold his position in the classification until the end.
Others had a more difficult starting position. For example, the five-time world champion Jakob Schubert. He ended up third to last in bouldering and knew that something really big had to happen in the lead. But Schubert wouldn't be Schubert if he couldn't deliver to the point under pressure. And so the freshly crowned world champion fought his way to the top and back into the race for the coveted Olympic ticket.
Below expectations
The catch-up race for the two Germans in the lead was less successful Alex Megos and Yannick Flohe, at the Swiss Sascha Lehmann or at the Austrian Nicolai Uznik. They weren't quite convincing in the bouldering semifinals and needed a lot of points in the lead. Unfortunately, the endurance-heavy route fended off one after the other and so the big combined final - apart from Schubert - had to take place without German-speaking athletes.
Lead World Champion as the only one at the top
The newly crowned lead world champion shone in the women's category Ai Mori again in the lead. She was the only one to reach the top. Oriane Bertone started with a good cushion from bouldering in the lead semi-final and got her ticket to the final without any problems. The American had to tremble more Brooke Raboutou, who was third in bouldering, but with a clear point deficit. However, she didn't let anything get in the way and was one of the few athletes to make it past the 60 mark.
This transition to the last section of the 15-meter wall was the key point for the women. Many athletes fell out at this very exhausting point. So too Jessica Pilz, who nevertheless qualified for the final thanks to a solid result in bouldering. Natalia Grossman narrowly missed out on an Olympic ticket as she finished ninth.
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Ranking combined semi-finals women
1 | Janja THREAD | 175 |
2 | Hey MORI | 136.9 |
3 | Oriana BERTONE | 133.5 |
4 | Brooke RABOUTOU | 122.1 |
5 | Miho NONAKA | 108 |
6 | Jessica MUSHROOM | 98.5 |
7 | Anastasia SANDERS | 92.5 |
8 | Jain KIM | 91.1 |
9 | Natalia Grossman | 88.5 |
10 | Chaehyun SEO | 86.4 |
11 | Manon HILY | 82.3 |
12 | Molly THOMPSON SMITH | 78.7 |
13 | HELENE JANICOT | 73.6 |
14 | Mia KRAMPL | 73.6 |
15 | Zelia AVEZOU | 73.3 |
16 | Oceania MACKENZIE | 71 |
17 | CV LUKAN | 65.5 |
18 | Ayala KEREM | 53.8 |
19 | Yejoo SEO | 53 |
20 | Kyra CONDIE | 45.5 |
21 | Laura ROGORA | 32.9 |
Ranking combined semi-finals men
1 | Sorato ANRAKU | 184.9 |
2 | Toby ROBERTS | 164.7 |
3 | Colin DUFFY | 157 |
4 | Tomoa NARASAKI | 148.7 |
5 | Jacob SCHUBERT | 144.8 |
6 | Adam ONDRA | 144.1 |
7 | Dohyun LEE | 129.7 |
8 | Paul Jenft | 126.3 |
9 | Mejdi SCHALCK | 125.9 |
10 | Oh YURIKUSA | 121.6 |
11 | Sean BAILEY | 111.5 |
12 | Yannick FLOHE | 109.9 |
13 | Alexander MEGOS | 106.9 |
14 | Michael MAWEM | 105.6 |
15 | Sasha LEHMANN | 101.2 |
16 | Meichi NARASAKI | 97.8 |
17 | Yoshiyuki OGATA | 92.8 |
18 | Nicolai UZNIK | 91.6 |
19 | Yunchan SONG | 91.2 |
20 | Sam AVEZOU | 82.7 |
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