Anyone who, like Alex Megos, has become strong on the finger holes in Franconian Switzerland and has trained for years with professional trainers such as Dicki Korb or Patrick Matros should be the perfect place to go when it comes to finger strength. In his latest video, the German climbing professional shows various exercises that you can use to build up your finger strength.
The Critical Force Test is a test to determine different components of climbing-specific finger strength. With the help of the test, the short-term available maximum strength, the long-term muscular endurance and the energy storage of an athlete's forearms can be determined.
The hang scale is a classic calisthenics exercise, but it can also be beneficial when climbing. Alex Megos and Christoph Hanke will show you five exercises with different levels of difficulty, with which you can approach the slope scale step by step.
Together with the training experts Patrick Matros and Dicki Korb and the climbing doctor Volker Schöffl, we will show you three preventive exercises to prevent symptoms of overload in the shoulder joint. The second exercise aims to improve mobility in the shoulder girdle: The Floor Angel
Always wanted to master the One Arm Pull Up? Alex Megos and Chris Hanke reveal their recipe for success and show you various exercises with which you can approach the ultimate challenge of the one-arm pull-up.
Together with the training experts Patrick Matros and Dicki Korb and the climbing doctor Volker Schöffl, we will show you three preventive exercises to prevent symptoms of overload in the shoulder joint. The first exercise focuses on shoulder stability: the sword pull.
Patrick Matros and Dicki Korb train well-known top athletes such as Alexander Megos and are known far beyond national borders with their training bible "Gimme Kraft". Volker Schöffl has made an international name for himself as a climbing doctor. From now on, the trio will present climbing-specific compensation training according to ACT on Lacrux. This article explains what their Adjunct Compensatory Training is all about.
Blood Flow Restriction Training (BFRT) is a training method that uses pressure cuffs to reduce blood flow. The effect: muscle growth and strength increase despite low training intensity. A type of training that can be particularly interesting during injury-related breaks in climbing and in the rehabilitation phase.
As part of our yoga series, we present you with yoga exercises at regular intervals that are tailored to the needs of climbers. The exercises will be presented by Prana and Petra Zink. In today's issue, Petra shows you the pigeon exercise, which stretches your glutes and at the same time loosens the sacrum and lower back.
Front lever cycling is a simpler form of slope balance. With this exercise you train your body tension very intensively. This is particularly useful when climbing steep and overhanging routes.
The windshield wiper is a pull-up bar exercise that works your obliques and core mobility. At the same time, you also strengthen the straight abdominal muscles and improve the tension in the entire upper body.
In a recently published video, Magnus Midtbo attempted the most difficult boulder on the Kilterboard. Now Alexander Megos and Chris Hanke are doubling with a new video.
The Japanese Tomoa Narasaki is one of the strongest boulderers in the world. In this video he reveals the best way to hold underhand grips and what to look out for.
As part of our yoga series, we present you with yoga exercises at regular intervals that are tailored to the needs of climbers. The exercises will be presented by Bächli Bergsport and Petra Zink. In today's issue, Petra shows you how to use lateral support to strengthen all of the muscles that stabilize the shoulder girdle.
Whether beginner or pro, many climbers make the same mistakes when training fingerboards. In the video, professional climber and coach Tom Randall clears up the three most common mistakes and explains the effect of fatigue, as well as body and grip position on training success.
As part of our yoga series, we present you with yoga exercises at regular intervals that are tailored to the needs of climbers. The exercises will be presented by Bächli Bergsport and Petra Zink. In today's issue, Petra shows you how to use the lunge to stretch your hip flexor muscles.
Learning a good climbing technique and constantly improving it is the cornerstone of good climbing and bouldering. Having good climbing technique means efficiently mastering the corresponding climbing situations and thus saving maximum strength and endurance. But how can the correct climbing technique be trained? Christoph Völker from Target 10a gives tips in this post.
The 22-year-old Scot William Bosi is one of the strongest climbers in the world. With the first ascent of King Capella (9b + / 9b) at the latest, Bosi moved into the international spotlight. In this video the guys from Lattice Training accompany him and show a typical training session by Bosi.
Indoor boulders are always dynamically screwed, as is often the case. Accordingly, techniques are required to find a solution that are rarely used in outdoor climbing. One such case is the pogo technique. The Japanese professional climber Tomoa Narasaki explains what it is and how the technique works in the following video.
The Norwegian Magnus Midtbo and the Briton Pete Whittaker try to break various world records. In the one arm hang, Pete breaks the previous world record.
Together with the Tyrolean company ArtRock, Jakob Schubert has developed an outdoor version of the Freewall. And this is now in the garden of his shared apartment, in which Alfons Dornauer, Lukas Köb and Michael Piccolruaz also live.
In a three-part training series on ActiontalkTV, 9a climber Marco Müller shows you how to train efficiently at home with simple means and little time investment. In today's and first edition, core training is the focus.
From school to the crag: Twelve-year-old Leo Cea used his autumn break to check out some challenging routes in Margalef. With "Víctimas Pérez," the exceptional young climber has now completed his fifth 9a there.
With «Omen Nomen», Filip Schenk has completed a long-standing project in Padaro near Arco. It's a line that has been on his to-do list ever since he started climbing difficult routes.
Controlled movements, tiny edges, stable positions - American sport climber Sean Bailey quietly repeated Aidan Roberts' test piece "Arrival of the Birds" in Chironico, Switzerland.
One flash after another! The rock climbing season has only just begun, and we're already typing away about Adam Ondra. The Czech climber has become only the second person in the world to flash Foundation's Edge (8C) in Fionnay.
Anyone who automatically thinks of Yosemite or Indian Creek when they hear the term "crack climbing" should take a closer look: The Valle dell'Orco in northern Italy is known as the "European Yosemite" for good reason. And that's exactly where the GOAT himself, Adam Ondra, has ended up.
