Nils Favre loves to discover new rocks and blocks. So he decided a few years ago for a trip to Gran Canaria and Tenerife. The result is several super hard first ascents, which he recorded in the form of a video series. We talked to Nils about his visit to Gran Canaria.
When were you in Gran Canaria?
I was in Gran Canaria in February 2015, I spent 3 weeks in Gran Canaria and one week in Tenerife.
Have you been to Gran Canaria before?
It was my first time in Gran Canaria and I didn't really know about the place. I watched some video and contacted local climbers. They were directly open and motivated to show me the area. A trip to an Island with unclimbed boulders motivated me a lot. In addition, I had never climbed on basalt rockk and i was really curious to climb on it. I love to discover new types of rock.
Why did you choose the island?
I wanted to find a place with a good potential, good quality rock and first ascent to do. There isn't a bouldering guidebook but the locals helped me. They were the best locals I've ever met on a climbing trip.
How would you describe bouldering in Gran Canaria?
There are definitely two kind of boulders in Gran Canaria. Boulders are either located in the dry riverbed or along the river. Inside the dry river, boulders are really smooth, polished by the water. IIt's really hard for the feet, a bit like Brione in Switzerland. On the side of the river, boulders are sharp and sometimes a bit fragile, the quality of the rock is a bit worse.
How many bouldering areas are there on Gran Canaria?
There is one big main area called Mogan and one smaller one called Tunte. Beside, there is a lot of small areas and many valleys with great bouldering potential.
With whom did you boulder in Gran Canaria?
I was there with Viviane Monteiro and the locals. The locals climbed with us almost everyday. I wanted to open a great line, but I first repeated all classics of the area (more than 15 boulders in the 8th grade). After climbing all the classic lines I finally found a really great boulder which suited my style. It's a big boulder with slopers and compression climbing. It's probably the hardest boulders I climbed and I proposed 8b, but it felt harder than other 8b's in the area. Maybe the grades are a bit soft in general, but correct for the whole island.
Fourth video of the Gran Canaria episode by Nils Favre
Videos from episodes one to three by Nils Favre at Boulderin on Gran Canaria
Episode 3
Episode 2
Episode 1
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Credits: Nils Favre