The new year could not have started better for the Italian Elias Iagnemma. He succeeded in making the first ascent of the 9A boulder The Big Slamm in Tintorale, Abruzzo.
Elias Iagnemma has it on the 9A boulder In March last year he secured the repeat of the world’s first 9A boulder, Burden of Dreams, in Lappnor, Finland. But in his home country, Italy, he has also been working on a line that had been uncharted until recently.
What a dream! I invested 35 sessions in this boulder over a year and a half. It was a crazy mix of conditions and mental and physical fitness.
Iagnemma repeatedly wanted to give up the project because he found it impossible to string together all these extreme features. The Big Slam An isolated 8A move is followed by a second move rated 8A in itself, which in turn leads to a standing start rated 8b/+.
In December, Iagnemma narrowly missed the climb
It's incredible how incredibly precise each body position and each individual kick and grip placement has to be in order for the moves to be possible.
Iagnemma suggests a difficulty level of 9A. The intensity of the boulder is comparable to Burden of Dreams, but the external factors, i.e. the conditions, are much more demanding. "The boulder is in a valley where the humidity is often very high. It's damn difficult to get the right conditions," explains Iagnemma.
I hope that some top climbers will plan a trip to southern Italy and try the boulder.
Elias Iagnemma during the ascent of Burden of Dreams
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Credits: Cover picture Stefania Colomba