Three days around New Year's and four days at the beginning of January were enough for Jakob Schubert to climb two 8C+, two 8C and two 8B+/8C boulders. In the following video, Schubert shows the uncut videos of his impressive ascents.
The Austrian's triumph began with a boulder that he had long had his sights on, but which was always denied to him: big paw (8B+/8C). The next day we continued on the Dreamtime block, more precisely in the line Return of the Dreamtime (8C+), first ascended by Yannick Flohe.
I know it's not exactly modest when I say that I was sure I could climb the boulder.
There is a reason for the immodesty. The boulder Dreamtime Schubert is very good at it and it was easy for him. And since Return of the Dreamtime shares the first part with Dreamtime, Schubert "only" had to rehearse the direct exit.
OK, 8B+/8C and 8C+ are entered in the route book. Next we go to a new creation of Shawn Raboutou on the opposite side of the Dreamtime Block, Story of Three Worlds. The boulder is extremely physically and technically complex at the beginning and very persistent in the final part (The Dagger).
Yannick Flohé pointed out a kick to me that was an absolute game changer for me.
Schubert has tried the boulder a few times, but always had trouble with the key move in the middle. Thanks to a hint from Yannick Flohé, this piece of the puzzle was solved and Schubert was able to climb the boulder on the second attempt on January 12, 2025. This is the first repetition of the boulder.
Before we produce a long desert of lead, here is a summary of what Jakob Schubert covered on his second trip:
- Mithril sit (8B+ / V14)
- Vecchio Leone sit (8C+ / V16)
- Lion's Share (8C / V15)
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Credits: Image material Nodum Sports