The American Noah Wheeler has succeeded in the first repeat of Sean Bailey's Shaolin (9A) in the Red Rocks. It is the 9-year-old's second 22A boulder after his ascent of Return of the Sleepwalker.
Only this January Noah Wheeler with Return of the Sleepwalker Without much fuss and shouting he had bouldered his first 9A. Now the 22-year-old was back in the Red Rocks successfully and was the first climber to repeat Shaolin, the latest line of his compatriot Sean bailey in First Creek Canyon.
Shaolin required more self-control from me than any other boulder before.
Noah Wheeler
Shaolin is located right next to the classic boulder problem Trieste and is considered the ninth boulder problem in the world at difficulty level 9A. In November 2024, Sean bailey With its first ascent, it is a power test piece for the climbing community, which is particularly known for its wide, dynamic pull into a left ledge.
But it was not this part of the boulder that Noah Wheeler caused the most difficulties. "I was able to do the crux move individually in 75 percent of all attempts," writes Wheeler on Instagram. But managing to do it after the initial sequence of about 8B was "something completely different."
I had to learn exactly how to hold the crux grip and how much pressure I could apply with my feet. Every attempt to climb through was precisely calibrated.
Noah Wheeler
9A, but soft: Wheeler on the grade of Shaolin
In total, Wheeler had invested two sessions in bouldering the line before he managed to complete it on his third day of the project. Before that, he had fallen three times on the last difficult move before the exit slab.
The initial sequence is a hard 8B or 8B+. Then comes the crux move (8A+/8B) and a move to the edge (8A/8A+). Overall, that makes a soft 9A for me.
Noah Wheeler
Surprise success in Trieste (8B+) on the same day
For him, the main focus of Shaolin was the joy of projecting, says Noah Wheeler: "Although I climb to do boulders, it's actually also about understanding myself better."
Inspired by his success in Shaolin (9A), Wheeler, who lives in Boulder, Colorado, also managed the sit-start ascent of the classic Trieste (8B+) on the same block.
For me, climbing is about self-discovery. When I push myself to the limit, I force myself to enter the unknown and control my determination, excitement and fear.
Noah Wheeler
In the video you can see Sean Bailey again on his first ascent of Shaolin (9A).
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+++ Credits: Cover photo Noah Wheeler