Ryuichi Murai repeats the Boulder Sleepwalker (8C +)

The Japanese Ryuichi Murai succeeds in repeating one of the most difficult boulders in the USA: Sleepwalker (8C +).

The Finnish climber was the first to plan the impressive line in the Red Rocks, USA Nalle Hukkataival over four years ago. In 2019, Jimmy Webb and Daniel Woods joined them and designed the boulder together with Hukkataival.

It quickly became apparent that Woods and Webb because of their span, they can omit a central point, a bad sloper. So it was Webb and Woods who cracked the boulder faster and climbed it first, specifically Jimmy Webb.

Nalle Hukkataival manages the third ascent of Boulders Sleepwalker
The famous sloper of Boulders Sleepwalker (8C+). (Picture Nalle Hukkataival)

But Lange also hesitated Hukkataival not, just two months after the first ascent, or four weeks after Wood's repetition, Hukkataival also unraveled the line.

Also Ryuichi Murai with limited wingspan

With the same problems as Hukkataival had Murai to fight. He also couldn't climb a central sequence like Woods and Webb, so he had to hold the highly conditional sloper. After eight days of effort, however, all factors fell into place.

«On the second day I could already do all the individual moves. But between days 3 and 6 I didn't make much progress. The deadpoint move to the sloper was particularly difficult for me.»

Ryuichi Murai

This deadpoint move to the sloper was not only physically demanding for Murai, but also mentally. On the eighth day of planning, the temperatures were a little higher than the days before and Murai reached the sloper from the start for the first time, but fell out later. Nevertheless, Murai was fired up by this success and managed to climb the boulder into the three attempts later Red Rocks, Nevada.

Jimmy Webb on the first ascent of Sleepwalker in the Red Rocks

That might interest you

Do you like our climbing magazine? When we launched LACRUX, we decided not to introduce a payment barrier. It will stay that way, because we want to provide as many like-minded people with news from the climbing scene.

In order to be more independent of advertising revenue in the future and to provide you with even more and better content, we need your support.

Therefore: Help and support our magazine with a small contribution. Naturally you benefit multiple times. How? You will find out here.

Don't miss anything - receive our newsletter

* Indicates required
Interests

+ + +
Credits: Cover picture Momoka Oda

News

Training despite an annular ligament injury

Ring ligament injury: In this video, Dave MacLeod explains what an adapted training session on the bouldering wall can look like.

Ondra during the 9a onsight attempt: final stop for grip breakout

This video shows Adam Ondra making a solid 9a onsight attempt. But when the handle breaks, it comes to an abrupt end.

Spanish Kinglines repeated

Jorg Verhoeven, Gabriele Moroni and Leo Ketil Bøe repeat classics of the 9th French degree in Siurana, Oliana and Margalef.

5th Petzl Climbing Festival Frankenjura 2024 | Info & program

Save the Date: from May 30th to June 2nd, 2024, the Frankenjura climbing festival is going into its fifth round in idyllic Königstein.

Newsletter

Subscribe to our newsletter now and stay up to date.

Training despite an annular ligament injury

Ring ligament injury: In this video, Dave MacLeod explains what an adapted training session on the bouldering wall can look like.

Ondra during the 9a onsight attempt: final stop for grip breakout

This video shows Adam Ondra making a solid 9a onsight attempt. But when the handle breaks, it comes to an abrupt end.

Spanish Kinglines repeated

Jorg Verhoeven, Gabriele Moroni and Leo Ketil Bøe repeat classics of the 9th French degree in Siurana, Oliana and Margalef.