Olympic champion climbs Off the Wagon (8B+) almost in one session

Olympic gold medalist Alberto Ginés López almost repeated the Ticino classic Off the Wagon (8B+) in just one session. The 20-year-old Spaniard made the key move five times in a row. In the end, a soaking wet exit forced him to make a second visit to Val Bavona.

Off the Wagon (8B+) is one of the most famous boulders in Europe. Discovered by Dave Graham, deciphered by Chris Sharma and first climbed by Nalle Hukkataival, the line draws in the Val Bavona still attract the world's best climbers today.

For example Alberto Gines Lopez, who almost climbed the line in one session - were it not for the wet exit. "In the first session I was able to make the key move five times in a row," says the strong Spaniard. Unfortunately, the top was completely wet. So it took a second attempt before the Olympic champion Off the Wagon (8B+) could tick off.

Rectangle_Knatsch in Magic Wood

Alberto Ginés López climbs Off the Wagon (8B+)

If you compare this period of time with the six years that lie between the discovery and the first ascent of the boulder, that's pretty fast. We're curious to see how long it takes the 20-year-old to decipher the seat-start version.

Marco Müller climbs off the wagon so smoothly

That might interest you

Do you like our climbing magazine? When we launched LACRUX, we decided not to introduce a payment barrier. It will stay that way, because we want to provide as many like-minded people with news from the climbing scene.

In order to be more independent of advertising revenue in the future and to provide you with even more and better content, we need your support.

Therefore: Help and support our magazine with a small contribution. Naturally you benefit multiple times. How? You will find out here.

+ + +

Credits: Cover picture Dominik Haertl

News

Martin Feistl had a fatal accident

The top German alpinist Martin Feistl had a fatal accident on the south face of the Scharnitzspitze last Saturday.
00:24:44

Seb Bouin: “After the most important crux I fell 11 times”

Video: Accompany French professional climber Seb Bouin on his way to the fourth ascent of Bibliographie in Ceüse.

Alex Honnold goes free soloing even on wet rock

Alex Honnold is back in Yosemite Valley with two 300-meter free solos, one of them on wet rock.

Edelrid Pinch: New belay device with blocking function and direct belt integration

The Pinch from Edelrid is the first safety device on the market that can be hooked into the central ring of the climbing harness without a carabiner.

Newsletter

Subscribe to our newsletter now and stay up to date.

Martin Feistl had a fatal accident

The top German alpinist Martin Feistl had a fatal accident on the south face of the Scharnitzspitze last Saturday.
00:24:44

Seb Bouin: “After the most important crux I fell 11 times”

Video: Accompany French professional climber Seb Bouin on his way to the fourth ascent of Bibliographie in Ceüse.

Alex Honnold goes free soloing even on wet rock

Alex Honnold is back in Yosemite Valley with two 300-meter free solos, one of them on wet rock.
×Display 350x90_Knatsch in Magic Wood