Once again, the Italian bouldering professional Niccolò Ceria can announce the inspection of an extremely difficult line. In mid-March he gets the fourth repetition of the Fontainbleau classic La Révolutionnaire (8c +).
Nicolo Ceria adds another 8c+ boulder to his ticklist. In the Gros Sablons sector in Fontainebleau he climbs the barefoot climber Charles Albert first-time boulder La Révolutionnaire (8c+). The Italian is behind Ryohei Kameyama and Simon Lorenzi only the fourth person succeeds in repeating this line.
Video: Niky Ceria climbs La Révolutionnaire (8c +)
Initial startup problems
"I had a lot of fun with this line," sums up Niccolò Ceria. Among other things, this has to do with the fact that most of the movements in La Révolutionnaire are very entertaining. In addition, the movements require tension above all and therefore cost little skin. "It was the perfect boulder to switch off and not think about the other lines I still have in mind."
At the beginning, the Italian struggled with the start sequence in particular. Both of Charles Albert's betas were difficult for him. La Révolutionnaire begins in a small cave very close to the ground. "From the grip Charles was using, I could see two possible sequences of movements," says Ceria. However, he said he could not put his body in the narrow hole at the bottom without touching the surrounding rock.
In mid-March, the Italian professional boulderer returned to Gros Sablons to try the start sequence again. With success: A minimal change in the heel hook at the start means that Niky Ceria can climb through the boulder in one go.
Dreamtime, Ephyra, Gioia
Niccolò Ceria had long opened new boulders in lesser-known areas. Most of the time without specifying a level of difficulty for his ascents. In recent years, the strong Italian has focused on repeating existing lines.
Video: Niky Ceria gets the second ascent of Ephyra (8c +)
This led to him climbing one difficult line after another. In his ticklist you can find Boulder like Ephyra (8c +) in Chironico, Dreamtime (8c) in Cresciano or Enjoyment (8c+) in Varazze. Now Niky Ceria completes the list with the Fontainebleau test piece La Révolutionnaire (8c +)
That might interest you
- Ticino Giuliano Cameroni commissions The Big Island in Fontainebleau
- Melissa Le Nevé is the first woman to get a 8b + Boulder in Fontainebleau
- Charles Albert aka Mowgli climbs La Révolutionnaire (8c +) barefoot
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Credits: Cover picture Nicolo Ceria