The strong British climber Aidan Roberts is driving the development of bouldering like no other. After Spots of Time (9A), he also rates his first ascent Arrival of the Birds in Chironico as the highest level of difficulty to date.
Even though he does not have as many confirmed 9A boulders in his pocket as, for example, Will Bosi or Simon Lorenzi, Aidan Roberts definitely one of the strongest boulderers in the world. With Spots of Time (formerly Helvellyn Project) and Arrival of the Birds (formerly Midnight Project) he has made two first ascents at the highest level this year.
Aidan Roberts took his time to evaluate his two routes. At the beginning of June he confirmed the suspicions of the climbing scene that his First ascent of Spots of Time around a 9A boulder Now he has also signed up for his second First Ascent Arrival of the Birds in Chironico The difficulty level 9A is suggested.
We wanted to share with you Aidan Roberts' thoughts on the inspection process and evaluation of Arrival of the Birds (9A):
A lesson in patience
«Two years ago, during my first days in Ticino, Giuliano Cameroni kindly showed me this line. I was immediately inspired by its pure and finger-heavy style as well as the unique set of grips. The first hasty session taught me the first of many lessons in patience.
I actually learned a lot while designing this line. Among other things, I feel like I've developed a certain respect for the undeniable factors that are beyond our control when we climb outdoors: the changing seasons, the limits of skin integrity, and the rest needed to recover from an injury.
Perhaps most memorable is that I learned not to rely so much on the outcome of my climbing.
Aidan Roberts
When ambition and passion collide
After a long spring 2023 season, I realized how long I had been overtaxing my inner motivation to keep trying this line. I felt like my energetic attitude was leading me to aimlessness. A little lost in confused motivation and severe fatigue.
On the last day of my trip, a fall from the edge, which in hindsight was valuable, prevented me from starting from the higher starting point, a slightly arbitrary position that seemed ambitious but achievable at the time. I felt I had to adopt the attitude of "I could, therefore I should". This took some of the joy out of the process.
Nevertheless, I am grateful for this experience because it showed me how a job that is often so much fun and playful can become a burden in the moments when passion and ambition collide.
Aidan Roberts
The first ascent of Arrival of the Birds
Having reignited my motivation over the winter, I now tried from the lower starting point, which had previously felt futuristic, and returned in the spring when the sun lit up the slope on the other side of the valley on a magical afternoon.
In my search for climbing perfection, I had found a flow in previous projects that gave me effortlessness, but always accompanied by small but noticeable errors in execution. Enough to make me wonder if I had reached my limits in such moments.
But this moment was unique. On one particular attempt, my mind was clear and my method flawless, but my body still gave out as I approached the top. After a very strenuous attempt, I stood above the valley as dusk fell. The sound of birdsong echoed everywhere.
The difficult question of difficulty level
The rating is quite difficult I think. I was lucky enough to try Arrival of the Birds with other experienced climbers and so a small consensus developed around the higher start I attempted.
Ultimately, I tried to open this line with a single start on the most obvious holds, which extended the original entry by three moves and significantly increased the difficulty.
Aidan Roberts
Over the last few years I've become quite specialized and prefer small holds and stable positions to move slowly between moves. This boulder couldn't reflect that style better.
Preferred style, maximum difficulty
Smooth, glassy rock means most features are unusable, so small gas pockets must be held as narrow incut ledges. Wide lateral footholds require a lot of body tension and a lot of power to be generated on the tiny holds.
And yet this boulder challenged my preferred skills to a degree that I had never experienced on other boulders.
Aidan Roberts
I found it exciting to better understand this style of climbing and to work on all its components over the last 2 years on a series of trips and training cycles. Focusing on this style meant that the training was satisfying, the progress was gradual but noticeable and consistent. Motivation rarely waned and I was able to train with a level of commitment and diligence that I hadn't experienced before.
Arrival of the Birds: A solid 9A
In the last few months after the ascent, I slowly began to realise how exhausting this process was, both physically and mentally. But it was worth it. Regardless of the line itself, I am convinced that this is the most demanding process I have undergone to complete an ascent.
Considering how comfortable I am with the line, I suspect it could be a pretty solid 9A.
Aidan Roberts
I am aware that these limits are not nearly as well known, certainly not by myself. Grades, in all their inconsistencies, should refer to a property of a boulder and not the climber, so I hope future climbers will help give their honest opinion.
That might interest you
- These are the most difficult boulders in the world
- That's why Aidan Roberts rates Spots of Time 9A
- Flash 8B+ for a moment: Aidan Roberts climbs Momentum | Video
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Credits: Cover picture Wedge climbing