Janja Garnbret begins her trip to Ticino with an absolute bang, repeating the ultra-classic Dreamtime (8C), as well as The Dagger (8B) and La Proue (8B) on the very first day.
Strong start to the off-season
Just two weeks ago, Garnbret made headlines in Arco by first securing the Rock Master title in bouldering and then proving in Massone that she is at least as strong on rock as she is on plastic. With a flash of Puro Dreaming (8c+/9a) she achieved what is likely the hardest flash by a female climber of all time. "I'll take it easy for a few days until the rock climbing season starts," the 26-year-old wrote on Instagram after her historic flash. Shortly afterwards, she announced the ascent of Rude (8B+) in Daone.
Dreamtime in Ticino
After flashing an 8c+ even before the official start of her climbing season, one could have guessed that Garnbret's season opener would be exciting. With the ascent of the ultra-classic Dreamtime (8 C) In Cresciano she is only the second woman, after Michaela Kiersch, who succeeded in this historic line. After all, Dreamtime is considered the world's first 8C. The route was first climbed by Fred Nicole in 2000. The first repeaters, including bouldering legend Dave Graham, Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra Dreamtime was downgraded to 8B+, until a broken hold in 2009 led to a renewed upgrade to 8C.
As if 8°C a day wasn't enough, Garnbret also ticks on the same day. The Dagger (8B) and La Proue (8B) – in Janja's words, a "dreamlike first day". So we remain curious to see what else the Slovenian will add to her tick list during the rock climbing season.
- 100 routes in 24 hours: Janja Garnbret collects donations for young athletes
- Janja Garnbret climbs 8c onsight twice in one day
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Credits: Cover photo: Screengrab video Janja Garnbret