Adam Ondra announces the successful ascent of the boulder Soudain Seul in Fontainebleau. Ondra is unsure about the level of difficulty. Details about the ascent in the video interview.
He wanted to devote himself seriously to bouldering, explains Adam Ondra in a statement about the ascent of Soudain Seul. And that is quite a statement for a climber who has 9c route and numerous boulders in the 8C/8C+ range in his route book.
I'm almost embarrassed that I've rarely been to Fontainebleau. And so I chose this area.
Adam Ondra
As a location for his company to seriously dedicate himself to bouldering, Ondra chose the bouldering mecca par excellence: Fontainebleau in France. And so was the 9A boulder Soudain Seul the logical goal.
Already in his first session, Ondra was enthusiastic about the line, but felt overwhelmed by the multitude of possible solutions. It was only in the second session that he found his optimal beta and was able to perform the standing start from «Big Island» climb. While the lower part is knee clamps While this was not a big hurdle for him, it made the subsequent physical part of the boulder and the friction-dependent part in the crux much more difficult.
Video Interview
Optimal conditions for the ascent
Ondra was already close to completing the climb in his fourth session. The decisive fifth session, however, took place in almost perfect conditions: it was cloudy and windy, so the friction was ideal. After failing in his first two attempts of the day, he finally managed to complete the climb on Soudain Seul on his third attempt, after a memorable battle.
I am incredibly happy and proud of this ascent. It means a lot to me because I have often been close to making relevant ascents in recent years, but it was never quite enough.
Adam Ondra
Ondra thanks Lucien Martinez, who was designing the Big Island boulder and pointed him to a beta that Ondra ended up using. Ondra also stresses how helpful it was to be able to watch a variety of beta videos from other climbers.
Debate about the evaluation of the line
Ondra was cautious about the difficulty of Soudain Seul, stressing that he is not an expert in high-end boulder ratings, as many of his hardest ascents are first ascents in his home country. Nevertheless, he described the line as the hardest boulder he has ever climbed.
It is definitely the hardest boulder ascent I have ever done and Soudain Seul is harder than the 8C+ first ascents I have done at home. And I feel very fit at the moment.
Adam Ondra
Ondra leaves it open whether Soudain Seul should be rated as 8C+/9a or a simple 9A. It is difficult to give a rating because the boulder involves many different movements and is technically diverse and complex.
As the icing on the cake, Ondra managed two ultra-difficult flash ascents the following day, namely Ubik Assis (8B) and La Ligne de Bete (8B+).
That might interest you
- Soudain Seul: 9a boulder or not? Camille Coudert repeated and affirmed
- Simon Lorenzi and the story behind Soudain Seul (9A) | Video
- In the bouldering Olympus: Will Bosi climbs his fourth 9A boulder with Spots of Time
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Credits: Cover picture Petr Chodura