In autumn 2022, Simon Gietl, Vito Messini and Matthias Wurzer opened one of the most difficult bolt-free multi-pitch routes in the Dolomites on the Torre Trieste. This year, Simon Gietl was able to climb all the pitches free. In an interview, he reveals what the route name Blutsbrüder means, how he experienced the first ascent and what challenged him most during the redpoint ascent.
The Torre Trieste, also known as the Tower of Towers, is an impressive natural monument that rises up like a rock fortress with its steep rock walls and striking silhouette. In its striking south wall, Simon Gietl, Vito Messini and Matthias Wurzer 2022 with blood brothers (22 SL, 8b) is one of the most demanding bolt-free climbing routes in the Dolomites. Two years after the first ascent, Simon Gietl was able to free climb all the pitches this late autumn. The continuous redpoint ascent is still pending.
Simon, how did you come to try a new route on the Torre Trieste?
Simon Gietl: The idea came from Vito Messini and Matthias Wurzer, who discovered the line when they were doing a repetition of the classic Carlesso. They told me about this line, which was great, and were surprised that such an impressive natural line was still free.
I was very pleased that they thought it would be better to try it as a threesome. I didn't have to think twice and was on board right from the start. So we agreed to meet in mid-October 2022 to start the project.
How long did it take you to complete the first ascent?
We were able to open our new line in about seven days, spread over a two-week period.
You named the route Blood Brothers, what does that mean?
This year, while we - Vito, Matthias and I - were attempting to climb the line in freestyle, Matthias unfortunately suffered an injury from a rockfall and had to be taken to the hospital to get stitches. My companion Simon Messner, who was supporting me on this adventure and also intended to belay me, was also hit by a rock. Fortunately, he escaped unscathed, without any serious injuries. These unexpected incidents led us to call our tour Blood Brothers.
The name Blutsbrüder not only reflects the balancing act between danger and success, but also acknowledges the great support of my friends Andrea Oberbacher and Davide Prandini.
Simon Gietl
They stood by my side bravely and secured me while I tried to master all the pitches in free climbing. The key pitch was particularly challenging and I tackled it for four days until I was finally able to conquer it without falling.
At this point I would like to say a huge thank you to everyone who helped me make my dream come true. Without the motivation and support of each and every person who accompanied me on this journey, I would never have made it! Now the continuous redpoint ascent is still to come and I wish everyone who takes on this challenge the best of luck! Your determination will accompany you on this journey.
Blutsbrüder is completely bolt-free. What kind of safety equipment did you use?
For security, we used two series of TotemCams as well as various normal hooks and peckers, all of which we left on site.
Was it clear to you from the start that you would do the route in this style?
Our goal was to create a logical and natural line without placing a single bolt. We knew that this was a very ambitious project, but it was precisely this challenge that inspired us and motivated us to do our best!
Can you guide us through your route in our minds: How difficult are the individual pitches and where did you face the biggest challenges?
The start of the tour is not too difficult. It is a classic grade 6 terrain, although at first glance the rock does not look as friendly as one might think. The belay point should also be approached with caution. As the tour progresses, the terrain becomes steeper and more challenging.
A mandatory grade 9 section, peppered with crunchy rock, is the crux at the end of this rope length.
Simon Gietl
Here you have the opportunity to build a solid stand with two friends. After this challenge, the path leads upwards over grey, grippy slabs. The last rope lengths up to the crux are fantastic lengths in the upper 7th grade.
But then the terrain changes abruptly: a heavily overhanging, 25-meter-high yellow slab with a fine crack and small ledges as well as microscopically small footholds requires a certain amount of strength and endurance when climbing.
A pecker and three hooks, placed deep in the rock at exactly the right spot, make it possible to safely tackle this exceptional 5-star length.
Simon Gietl
Then it's a further nine rope lengths over roofs, corners and slabs towards the summit. It's still important to master the solid 9th grade, as some difficult sections cannot be secured. The crowning glory of the tour is the small summit plateau, from which you can enjoy a breathtaking panorama in the heart of the Dolomites.
What emotions do you have when you look back on this first ascent?
It was a unique and unforgettable journey for me, with its ups and downs. For everything I had to give, I received just as much in return, for which I am extremely grateful and happy!
Never before has a first ascent challenged me as much as this one.
Simon Gietl
What will you remember most about Blood Brothers?
Although the sporting thrill of the first ascent, of finally free climbing the route, was the main focus, the time spent with Vito and Matthias during the opening was the real heart of our adventure. It was a fantastic experience with friends who shared the same dream.
We started the tour by taking turns leading and felt the excitement in the air together. Every meter we laboriously mastered was a little celebration for us, a step closer to the summit, which filled us with joy and pride. The shared laughter, the sweat in our eyes and the indescribable feeling of camaraderie made this experience unforgettable.
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Credits: Cover picture Silvan Metz