Head-to-head race on Mount Everest: Andrews & Egloff plan record attempts

Speed ​​climbers Tyler Andrews and Karl Egloff are currently preparing independently to climb Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen. Both have their sights set on a new record time.

Record holder on Mount Everest There are several – from the fastest ascents of the south and north sides to best times with and without supplemental oxygen. The American extreme mountaineer Tyler Andrews wants to break the record for the fastest ascent via the south side without external oxygen supply this season.

Also on Everest: the Swiss-Ecuadorian speed alpinist Karl Egloff, who, in turn, aims to climb the roof of the world in under 24 hours and without artificial oxygen. Both mountaineers are multiple record holders on various peaks around the world. The fact that they are aiming for new records on Everest at the same time is a professional coincidence.

Acclimatization until the start in May

Both Andrews and Egloff are planning their record attempts in May, a few weeks from now – until then, they need to acclimatise to the altitude. Tyler Andrews has his sights set on the best time set by Kazi Sherpa, who set the record in 1998. Everest without oxygen and via the southern route in 20 hours and 24 minutes.

Karl Egloff, who holds record times on four of the seven highest peaks in the world, is currently training on Mera Peak in Himalayas for an ascent in under 24 hours. In a few weeks, both climbers will start an involuntary head-to-head race from Base Camp.

Speed ​​records on Everest: controversial best times

Record attempts on the highest eight-thousanders are also possible outside the mountaineering-Scene is associated with public interest and is not without controversy. While there is generally inconsistency regarding the best times – for example, which route was chosen and whether oxygen was used – there are also records that have been retroactively challenged.

Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa fought for a long time to have his best time on the south side, achieved in 2003, recognized. With the help of artificial oxygen, he had reached the summit in 10 hours and 56 minutes – but the record holder was still Pemba Dorje Sherpa, who claimed in 2004 to have reached the summit in just 8 hours and 10 minutes.

Pemba Dorje Sherpa was never able to prove the record, which raised eyebrows in mountaineering circles – in November 2017, Nepal’s Supreme Court declared his Record therefore invalid.

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Credits cover photo: Kabita Darlami/Unsplash