The Italian alpinist and mountain guide Stefano Ragazzo writes climbing history: He is the first to climb Eternal Flame, the iconic line by Kurt Albert, Wolfgang Güllich, Christoph Stiegler and Milan Sykora on the Nameless Tower in Pakistan, rope solo.
Eternal Flame is one of the most famous and challenging big wall routes at high altitude. The names of the climbers who have attempted this route read like a who's who of the mountaineering scene. Stefano Boy achieved a historic ascent: Over the course of 9 days he climbed the 650-meter-long route with difficulties up to 7c+ rope solo. We spoke to the Italian mountaineer about this tremendous adventure.
Stefano, congratulations on this impressive solo! How did it feel when you reached the summit?
I knelt down and cried. I looked at K2 where Silvia was, I missed her. I wasn't able to put many things together, I knew it was something big but at the same time I wasn't able to think about it much.
What does this visit mean to you?
I was not born particularly talented from a climbing perspective. When I was young, my parents took me to the seaside for summer holidays. I only started climbing after high school. I am not a full-time athlete. To make a living, I work as a mountain guide. That's how I financed my travels and expeditions.
The rope solo ascent of Eternal Flame is certainly the result of years of effort, dedication and training that paid off. I always went my own way, sometimes it was hard, but I always kept going.
I don't want to stop now, I hope that this climb will be just another piece of the big life puzzle that I am trying to build.
Stefano Boy
How did you even come up with the idea of trying Eternal Flame Rope Solo?
My first expedition to Pakistan was in 2016 together with Silvia Loreggian. We were 25 years young and had our heads full of dreams and summits. During our stay in El Chalten we shared the apartment with some American guys, including David. David is not only a mountaineer but also an artist. When you land in LA you can see his murals on the airport wall.
During the long periods of bad weather he was always painting and we talked for days about big walls, explorations etc., so in the last few days I asked him to draw something in my journal, a suggestion of walls I should have visited sooner or later. He drew El Capitan and the Nameless Tower.
For the last 3 months I was able to climb the Nose and Eternal Flame rope solo without really knowing what was going on.
Stefano Boy
How did you know it was time to tackle Eternal Flame on your own?
I have been thinking about this adventure for several years, but I thought it was impossible. In recent years I have put many things aside to follow my mountain dreams: working as a mountain guide, friendships and the possibility of a stable life.
Sometimes life gives you signals and it is up to you whether you follow them or not.
Stefano Boy
Last year I started organizing an expedition in Pakistan to climb an unclimbed peak with Silvia Loreggian, my life and climbing partner. In November she was invited by the Italian Alpine Club to climb K2 for the 70th anniversary of the first ascent.
So I reorganized myself and planned the expedition with some athletes from The North Face. After climbing a long route in the Mont Blanc area with one of them, I realized that I didn't want to go on such a wild expedition with them. You know inside when the feeling isn't right. So I was alone again.
This word “alone” became more and more present during the winter months and the Nameless Tower emerged again like a sign from the depths of my mind.
Stefano Boy
Were there any moments during your Eternal Flame climb when you no longer believed in success?
I think my mind made the big difference this time. I always tried to stay in the flow and not get caught up in negative things. When it was time to climb, I was totally focused on climbing, and when it was time to wait in the portaledge, I waited. It's like focusing on a pitch on the rock, but I did that for 9 days.
I was so focused that when I reached the summit I realized I had forgotten how many days I had been on the wall.
Stefano Boy
When did you realize you would reach the summit?
Only on the last day, when I reached the last mixed pitches. The sky was bright blue and for the first time I saw more than just intimidating clouds around me.
How many days on the wall had you prepared for beforehand and had you brought along the appropriate supplies?
I had food for six breakfasts and five dinners plus energy bars, gels, etc.
Can you tell us something about your climbing style?
On the first day I climbed to Sunny Terrace. On the second day, bad weather forced me to stay in the portaledge. On the third day I climbed pitches 10, 11 and 12. On the fourth day I climbed pitches 4 and 13. On the fifth day on the wall I managed pitches 14 to 15. On the sixth day I spent the portaledge again due to the weather. On the seventh day I climbed pitches 19 to 20 and the next day pitch 25. On the ninth day I reached the summit.
I climbed "French free", a classic technique used to climb routes like the Nose on El Capitan. In short: as free as possible.
Stefano Boy
I free climbed all the mixed pitches and most pitches up to 6c+. I also tried to climb the cracks around 7a/7a+ as free as possible, but I took at least one break at the end.
From 7b onwards I climbed completely technically, apart from a few movements in the most difficult pitches, which must be climbed free.
That might interest you
- Edu Marin: Legendary big wall route Eternal Flame (650m, 7c +) free climbed
- Babsi Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher repeat Eternal Flame (650m, 7c+) at the Trango Tower
- Watch Reel Rock documentary Burning the Flame for free
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Credits: Cover picture Stefano Boy