Ukrainian mountaineers Mykyta Balabanov and Mykhailo Fomin have successfully opened a new route on the imposing west face of Ama Dablam. After four strenuous days of climbing, they reached the summit on November 1st.
The two-time Piolet d'Or award winners Mykyta Balabanov and Mykhailo Fomin have climbed the steep and complex west face of the Mistress Dablam a new route was opened: Chegi (1600m, ED, M5, AI4, 80°).
Away from commercial expeditions
The 6812 meter high Ama Dablam is one of the most famous peaks in Nepal. The normal route over the southwest ridge has become the standard ascent for commercial expeditions. While hundreds of mountaineers use this route to reach the summit every year, other ascents - for example through the wild west face - are reserved for the absolute top climbers and are therefore rarely attempted.
South face too risky
Nikita Balabanov and Mikhail Fomin spent a total of four days on the west face of Ama Dablam to complete their new route. After abandoning the idea of ​​opening a route on the south face due to the miserable conditions, they climbed the west face on October 28th.
The Ukrainian alpinists followed the distinctive ridge to the left of a complex, inclined wall section. The section above a steep rock barrier proved to be particularly tricky, where the two had to fight their way up several hundred meters in unstable snow with no safety equipment.
On November 1st, Nikita Balabanov and Mikhail Fomin reached the summit of Ama Dablam and descended via the normal route. Their impressive new route is not completely independent, but converges with the British route from 6250 at an altitude of 2001 meters. The two alpinists named their new route Chegi (1600m, ED, M5, AI4, 80°) - in honor of their friend who recently fell in Ukraine.
The two Ukrainian mountaineers Mykita Balabanov and Mykhailo Fomin on the summit of Ama Dablam. Photos: Balabanov/Fomin
bad weather at Makalu
The strong duo had originally travelled to Nepal to open a new route on the 8000m Makalu. However, the bad weather conditions in September put a stop to their plans. Heavy snowfall affected and delayed their acclimatisation to such an extent that they abandoned their plan and turned to Ama Dablam.
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Credits: Cover picture @pasang_rinzee